We need ten members to get our own forum. This is a stock I took for the school. I'll probably submit it just because of the effort I put into making it stock-worthy (background was a yellowish hue and sharpening was a pain). Don't put any watermarks on any stocks you plan to submit. People do it, and it's really annoying.
Here are the shots I promised. I would probably use wetlands in a resource pack. By the way, the "litter under the bridge" was taken on ISO 3200 and I didn't realize it till the next day, so that's why it looks so edgy. It has quite a bit of post-production work put into it as well. This is my new photo comp entry:
oh wow i love those pics the tracks and the last one wish i had a place like that around here too many building.
I am just as jealous about those buildings. I keep on wanting to drive out to Vancouver for the day, but parking is horrible and I don't really have the time to do it. Someday though.
We're all jealous of where everybody else is Very nice shots. You do a great job of using line and shapes to lead the eye . And for ISO 3200, that turned out really well . With the D40, I can't go above ISO 800 if I want a usable shot. My favorite one has got to be with you below the train tracks. Smart move, not centering the vanishing point. Makes it much more interesting Here's a list of books that you guys might be interested in reading: Photography, 9th edition (or any prior editions) by Upton & London any Photoshop book by Katrin Eismann (Creative Digital Darkroom is a good overall intro) Perfect Digital Photography by Jay Dickman and Jay Kinghorn Light and Lens by Robert Hirsch The Elements of Photography by Angela Faris Belt My teacher sent this list to me. Apparently they're good for covering all the basics . Katrin Eismann has lots of Photoshop techniques you wouldn't even think about too.
Thank you for the comments and the list. I might check out a few when I get some money, though all the extra money I am getting right now is going to go towards a nice 300mm lens (I want to get some nice animal action shots). I was thinking of going for the $1200 one by Nikkor, but if you have any other suggestions I would be happy to hear them. I hear the Sigma 70-300 APO blah blah is great as well though slow to focus which probably isn't practical for action shots. I am starting to understand my camera, which is nice. Though quite a few times I just pick up switch like one setting and then go point and shoot, because the look fine. Then I realize that I have it on ISO 3200 or manual focus and I start doing more. It is quite interesting advancing to a DSLR.
hmm any website that would uh.. give me good inputs on settings (not that i would use those settings and they will work but.) im trying to understand the shutter speed vs f-stop.. as i with my flash on use 1/15 with F20 on prob 400 800 ISO (that's what i tired ) yoy guy sunderstand what im tryign to say?
Shutter speed: how long your shutter is open and exposing light to the sensor in your camera. Aperture: how wide the diaphragm (the opening) in your lens is. The diaphragm blocks light from hitting the sensor in your camera. The smaller the hole, the less light hits it. Both of these control exposure. The third way to control exposure is using ISO, which does not change the amount of light hitting the sensor; rather, changes the sensitivity the sensor has to the light itself. Aperture is also referred to as your F-stop, which is why you say F20 or F/20 when listing your aperture. This is somewhat of a misnomer, because F-stop is short for "full stop" and full stop has to do with shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. If you've ever read music, it's the same concept as a full step in song (A to B instead of A to B flat). Going up one full stop will double the light, while going down one full stop will half the light. There are already officially set full stops. For aperture, they are: F1 F2 F2.8 F4 F5.6 F8 F11 F16 F22 F32 F45 Going from F1 to F2 will half the amount of light. For shutter speed: 1" 1/2" 1/4" 1/8" 1/15" 1/30" 1/60" 1/125" 1/250" 1/500" 1/1000" 1/2000" 1/4000" 1/8000" It continues on when you reach full seconds. Exposure time is doubling each full stop (1" goes to 2", 4" to 8"). ISO follows the same basic rule. If you have yours set to ISO 50 and change it to ISO 100, you are doubling the sensor's sensitivity to light. If you have found the proper exposure for a scene, but need a faster shutter speed and your aperture is at its maximum setting, you can increase your ISO. If you bring your ISO up twice (i.e. 50 to 200) that means that you can change your shutter speed to something two stops faster. On the list of full stops I gave you, we'll say you start at 1/15". You need to move to the right two full stops, which takes you to 1/60". This is called equivalent exposure. Equivalent exposure relies fully on the concept of full stops. It is used to control aesthetics. Having your aperture closed down (F22) will give you a wide depth of field, putting pretty much everything in focus. Having your aperture opened up (F2) will give you a narrow depth of field, meaning only a small window is in focus (When I can, I'll upload a series of the same photo with different apertures onto deviantart). If you found the proper exposure at F22 but want only one part of the image to be focused, you need to get it to your smallest aperture. We'll use F2. F2 is seven stops opened up from F22. Which means we need to shorten the exposure by seven full stops. If we're at 1/30", we count seven full stops to the right. That puts us at 1/4000" @ F2, which is the same as 1/30" @ F22. Equivalent exposures allow you to control how motion and depth appear in the photo. Do you want to freeze motion, or blur it? Are you trying to only focus on one subject and leave the rest blurry, or are you trying to keep everything in focus? Examples: 1/60" @ F11 1/250" @ F5.6 1/4000" @ F32 1/8" @ F1.4 With ISO included: 1/125" @ F2 ISO 200 1/250" @ F2 ISO 400 1/250" @ F2.8 ISO 800 1/125" @ F2.8 ISO 400 1/30" @ F2 ISO 50 1/60" @ F1.4 ISO 50 The list with ISO's are all the exact same exposure, meaning the image is going to be the exact same brightness for each of those . And that's not even all the equivalent exposures for that . When you bring a flash into the mix, you probably don't need to be shooting at ISO 400. Change it to ISO 50, which I know the SXi can do. You can still get depth if you have a lower ISO here. Only leave it at 400 or 800 if you want the whole area to be in focus. Use your aperture and shutter speed to control exposure with the flash. I think 1/15" @ F9 ISO 50 is equivalent, but I generally have trouble remember third stops (one of my lenses doesn't even have them). Practice with equivalent exposures. It's the handiest, most helpful thing I've learned this year. This is hard stuff for me to explain without having the person in front of me. If I confused you at all, just tell me so . It would probably help if I wasn't starting at the basic, lol. If I were teaching a class, I'd make you go out and play around with the different things before bring all this other stuff in. Here's a site that I just skimmed and says basically the same thing, only probably a bit easier: http://www.primeimages.co.uk/Photography%2...oto%20tips1.htm One last thing: Slight, your camera has an in-camera meter built into it. This measures light reflected off of a surface and will give you what it believes to be the proper exposure. It's normally pretty accurate, but can be fooled in areas with high contrast, areas that are white, and areas that are black. Use this meter. Make sure you flash is set to TTL and the camera will include the flash in its meter readings. You can set the flash to TTL in the menu, but it may already be set that way. The meter might appear different on my camera than yours, but it shows up on your LCD menu. It generally is a horizontal dashed line. If the right half the line is bold, it means you're over-exposing, and if the left half is bold, you're under-exposing. You want everything to be in the middle. I don't actually use my meter since it's reliant on a digital lens, lol. I need a hand held incident light meter, but it'll cost me $220.
hmm interesting information, thing i always confused cux sometimes when there is a lot of sun i go up to 1/2000 F8 F10 or so but what i wanted to know if instead i would go 1/800 with F32 or so the higher the number the less time the shutter is open right? 1/2000 will open and close faster than 1/5 cuz when i use 0"3 it last a lot to close after it opens up... i understand that the less light around the more time the shutter needs to be open, to capture the image. and yes that sensor works is not 100% accurate but it does a good job helps me determinate the settings im using... and sorry for the typo is 5 am haven't sleep and thanks for that links i was looking for an information like that.
Just think of shutter speed in terms like this: it's how many seconds the shutter is open. 1/4000 is a smaller number than 1/15, so 1/4000 will be faster . If you shoot 1/2000 @ F8 and want to shoot at 1/800, you probably want to go to F13 or so. Like I said, I have trouble when we bring thirds into the mix . However, 1/800 will only look different than 1/2000 if you're shooting vehicles and whatnot. It will freeze most everything else, except maybe a person flying through the air. You'd probably want to go lower than 1/800 if you're trying to change how motion is showing. Remember, with less light around, you don't necessarily have to change your shutter speed. Aperture and ISO like to be changed too And I'm tired now. But I have to play with CS4 now since I just got it installed, so I'm going to do that before I go sleepy.
Yes and no. On my camera all shutter speeds ABOVE ONE SECOND are marked with ". All numbers UNDER ONE SECOND are not marked at all. So I have: 30" 25" 20" 15" 13" 10" 8" 6" 5" 4" 3" 2.5" 2" 1.6" 1.3" 1 1.3 1.6 2 2.5 3 4 5 6 8 10 13 15 20 25 30 40 50 60 80 100 125 160 200 250 320 400 500 640 800 1000 1250 1600 2000 2500 3200 4000 Slow<--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->Fast Here is something that might help you understand: Keep in mind that these settings are being taken in a medium-low-light situation.
Bulb is extremely long shutter speed. You can hold it for up to 30 minutes (I believe). You would not want to do this without a tripod and a remote though. Edit: Why is it that I am the only person from CameraDrawn to have entered the photography competition?
