so yeah i got me a rebel xti first day trying it.. i know is not good but i hope i get better not many good spots around where i live so i just was experimenting in my house.
My first shots with my Nikon D40 didn't turn out so well either, but they were sure fun to take . That bottom picture would look awesome if it were HDR too, that way you'd see the detail on the birds too. Are you playing around with manual settings? My experience is that manual will look nicer than auto, it just takes longer to figure out. Eventually you use it enough that you can figure out the ideal settings pretty easily, though. Keep playing around and maybe try to do some street photography . I love looking at that stuff... And... is that a FERRET? Because that's what it looks like to me from this angle 0.o. I want Photomatix :'( (and now I have a crumb stuck in my keyboard... darnit!)
i was using the P mode on auto focus whats better to use P or manual? and whats HDR how i make a pic in HDR? oi just been messing around with P mode havent tried manual yet i wanan learn how to use the macro mode tho here in ny there is no landscape or tress flowers to take pics most street and objects is what i find aroudnd my house yes thats a ferret lol
Hmm... well, one word of advice I have to give is to use periods and commas . I use manual over P (which I can't recall what the P stands for, just what it does). With manual I can choose what specific effects I want and exactly how I want it to show up. My camera is pretty much always on manual, but that's somewhat related to the fact that I have a 35 year old lens and I have to use manual when I'm using that lens. Macro mode is just using the settings you would use in manual in a way that will give you a narrow depth of field. You don't need macro to get the effect. Open up the aperture as much as possible (the smaller the number, the larger you've opened it up), then set the speed to the appropriate setting. If your camera is focused properly, you should notice that whatever you were focused on is sharp, and everything else is out of focus. For macro, you just turn it to that setting, let the camera do the work, and make sure it focuses on the right thing. It's pretty much the same as a point-and-shoot camera. The camera knows that you want a narrow depth of field, and so it adjusts itself. I just don't trust my camera as much as I do my own experience and experimentation . Ferrets are cute and fluffy
the aperture is that setting that goes such as.. 1/200 ect. right? but ok the smaller the number works for macro? or the ------ the number? and uh.. whats HRD.. yes, ferrets are cute, i also have 2 chinchillas. ah and btw P mode i think is "program" so i read.
Oh, oops, forgot to explain HDR. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range Imaging (for some reason, the I is lost in there... Officially, the acronym does hold the I). You take several pictures of the exact same thing and then merges them together. It works in 32 bit channels and allows you to have more detail. You know how when you snap a picture and there's a window with light shining in? That window will either be completely white, or everything else in the room will be completely dark. With HDRI, you take composite pictures, one with a slower shutter speed so that you get the details of the window, one with the ideal shutter speed, so you get a little of everything, and one with a faster shutter speed, so that you get all the darker areas (more exposures are acceptable, and even recommended). You then use a program that is capable of creating HDRI photos and it will merge them together (Photoshop has it built in, but Photomatix has a more impressive result). You no longer have an area completely white or too dark to see details; instead, you see what the human eye sees in the same spectrum. This picture is, by far, the best example of it. 1/200 is the exposure/shutter speed. It means that the shutter is open for 1/200 of a second, or .005 seconds. Aperture (also known as the F-stop) is that funny thing within the lens that will block a certain amount of light. The numbers vary for what you can set it to; I have one lens that goes down to 1.4, but my other one only goes down to 4.5. They also can range from going as high as 16, to 32, or whatever your lens says (I don't really know the ranges, just that they're different depending on the lens). Play around with the exposure and aperture and experiment with the different effects it gives you: experience is the best way to learn. And you're right, P is program. I never use it, so I couldn't remember what it was, lol. You like cute little furry things, don't you? lol
thanks for the explanation, lol now to fins how i set up the Aperture. gotta finish reading the book, so that that 1/200 thing how that number works? and the Aperture, the lower the number the better? wow that HDR image is nice, but thats kind of hard to get all those pics on the same position without moving and change the shutter speed. :/ and yes i just spend 300 usd on both of them
Shutter speed is 1/x of a second. With your camera, you can get it to be full seconds as well. Your camera probably goes up to around 1/4000 of a second or so. There's also the bulb setting, which has the shutter open for as long as you hold the button down. Various shutter speeds and aperture settings are good depending on the situation. Close up, you want a low aperture and high shutter speed (ie F-stop 1.4, speed 1/600+). For landscapes, you probably want your aperture set around the middle for the sharpest image; you should set the shutter speed to the appropriate setting (experiment to find which one offers the best picture). Also, for sports you'll want the aperture all the way open, and you'll want the fastest shutter speed possible. It'll allow you to capture faster movements. Use a tripod . I still haven't entirely figured out all that stuff yet, but I don't have very good software for it. I'll mess with it when I get Photomatix. Lol, I would've bought another lens with that money
